– What is iREED, how does it work?
iREED®, patented by Itema, is a special reed which features a specific reed tunnel shape that, in combination with the Itema single hole relay nozzles optimize the air flow in the reed channel for a more efficient weft insertion. The air consumption is lower up to 23% and the air pressure level required is reduced. The single hole relay nozzles, by far the best solution for energy cost saving, guarantee lower maintenance needs. iREED functioning is very simple, the weaver just has to equip the Itema airjet A9500p machine with this device and benefits will come automatically.
– In your new airjet machines what is the highest speed you recommend for denim fabric by using Ne 12 with 70denier lycra?
Considering a 50% yarn quality line, based on uster statistics, and a good twist stabilization (steaming treatment) the Itema airjet A9500p can reach up to 1100 rpm on a 220cm loom width.
– When we are running higher denier lycra like 105 denier and 140 denier, we are facing white mark problems sometimes, which we are controlling through selvedges. Does the Itema airjet machine have any specifically equipment to control this?
Yes, the Itema airjet machines feature a best-in-class stretch nozzle. In the highlighted situation, the best technical solution that we suggest is weaving with cut reed version.
Moreover, Itema also provides electronic features and solutions to optimize and support this specific yarns weaving, such as the stretching pulse.
– Everybody agrees on the need to produce sustainable products, but where to start?
First, looking at the issue and investigating the matter is a perfect starting point, since it shows the willing of a Company to address sustainability as a main target. Nowadays, it is possible to start by choosing to install textile machineries that provide energy, resources and raw materials saving thus leading to a sustainable approach in the fabric manufacturing process, as it is for example with the Itema weaving machines (R95002denim with iSAVER™, ndr).
Another possibility is to supply cotton certified by international organizations, such as BCI cotton. Moreover, in the fibre stage of making denim, recent technologies that help mills in creating more sustainable denim include biodegradable synthetics, bio elastomers and man-made alternatives in the form of lyocells, cellulose and post-industrial cotton waste.
– How many sustainable products are possible to achieve in the denim industry?
Well, concerning the manufacturing equipment, if you produce your denim fabrics on the Itema rapier R95002denim equipped with iSAVER™ all fabrics you will weave will be sustainable. In fact, thanks to iSAVER™, 1.000 Kg of cotton per machine per year – the 3% of the total raw materials – will be saved, thus avoiding the waste of 20 million liters of water.
A lot can be done also in the Indigo dyeing process, the most water and chemical intensive process of denim manufacturing. And how denim is dyed hugely impacts the weaving and finishing stages.
That’s why, in the dyeing department, makers are focusing on technologies that lower water consumption and create recyclable discharge. The challenge is to improve a century-old process using the oldest dye in the world without corrupting the inherent character of indigo, but at the same time significantly reducing the environmental impact of indigo dyeing. Some of the most important recent innovations to do this include:
- Using pre-reduced indigo dyeing instead of powder indigo, which saves significant amounts of water, uses 70% less chemicals, and it’s salt-free.
- Nitrogen dyeing, which slows down oxidation and accelerates the dyestuff’s penetration into yarns, or the opposite; dyeing with less indigo penetration, which helps reduce resource consumption in the garment finishing stage.
- Innovations like foaming and spray dyeing also save considerable amounts of water.
Indigo dyeing machinery producers developed technology able to reduce up to 30% of water consumption and waste yarn.
Skipping to the final stage of making denim, the fabric finishing, is quite heavy on resource consumption, which is why there’s also some important innovation going on here.
Smart finishes and smart chemicals are now used throughout these processes, such as foam coatings and ozone finishing. Technology such as ammonia finishing, which uses ammonia gas to reduce water and chemicals is another important but still expensive fabric finish.
Focusing on fabric construction, there are endless creative possibilities to produce sustainable products, for example by choosing green certified cotton and the latest eco-yarns.